Le Bilboquet

Normally it’s bad form to order the cheapest wine on the menu, but this unpretentious bistro has a chilled Chateau des Tours Brouilly that was just right after a long afternoon of cigars and scotch and backgammon.

Unfortunately, the Steak Black Angus, sauce au poivre was a disappointment — every element was somehow off. The frites were too big, too white, and too salted. The steak was nicely pink but had a rough and unappealing texture, and the anemic pepper sauce just didn’t know what it was doing. The only nice touch was the sun-dried tomato hiding under the obligatory sprig of parsely.

Despite the weak steak au poivre, this is one of the better French bistros on the Upper East Side: the place is loud and festive, the staff is French and friendly, and the lights keep getting dimmer. When Valentine comes to take your order, pass on the steak and order something else. Preferably in French.