Pastis

Pastis is loud, noisy, and full of poseurs, but they do serve up a nice eggs Benedict. And, at least they are keeping the window painters of New York busy — the doors and windows proclaim: buvez, mangez, café, comptoir, journaux du monde entier.

The Hollandaise was subtle and flavorful with a hint of lemon and a sprinkle of cayenne pepper, though it could have been a touch richer.

The eggs were nicely rounded but slightly cold, and the whole setup was perched awkwardly on a base of potato wedges, grilled with small strips of onion to add flavor and sweetness.

Other untested items on the menu are: eggs bamboches (poached eggs and hollandaise over salt cod hash), eggs hussard, and eggs à la Basquaise.