brunch.org > Steak au Poivre > Reviews > Switzerland > Hotel Stern
 

	Meat quality Meat preparation Béarnaise Potato croquets Garnishes Sides

Reichsgasse 11
Chur, Switzerland
+41 (0)81 / 252 35 55
www.stern-chur.ch
 

My first experience with chateau-briand was nearly a decade ago at the train station restaurant waiting for the Paris train in Sargans. The meat trolley rolled out, the meat cut, vegetables placed on the side, and Béarnaise poured wherever you fancy. The helping was modest, and when I finished I was satisfied, with plenty of room for desert. Then I was hit completely unaware by the second helping, equal in size with the first, but with a completely different offering of vegetables. Somehow, I still managed to force down some crepe suzette.

Since those first visits to Switzerland, we’ve moved on from the random restaurants selected from necessity to the local treasures, the “Romantik” Hotel Stern in Chur being chief among them. The conditions for ordering chateau-briand must be exact: a hearty appetite is required to finish both servings, one must resist the temptation to order the delicious venison, and there must be a partner in crime as the chateau-briand can only be ordered for two. Having been satiated with game the previous night, and having my little brother as the instigator, I threw caution to the wind and took the plunge.

The meat was perfect and perfectly cooked, with a rich red inside and a delicate taste that almost melted in your mouth. The Béarnaise sauce was delicious: rich without being heavy. The potato croquets were good as far as croquets go, and the staff were highly amused at the requests to pour Béarnaise over them, though by the second helping did so on their own accord, leaving the gravy boat behind for additional helpings. I would have requested they be substituted for rösti, but my brother and I had had two different local styles of rösti for our appetizers. All seven vegetables were divine, especially the spinach, a side almost always unappealing, though on those rare occasions sublime. Beating the chateau-briand may be impressive, but to prove you weren’t even phased, have the apple strudel for dessert.

Submitted by DO Jr.
January 1, 2002