Provence

Don’t expect to get out of Provence in a hurry. The service can be unbearably slow, especially in the garden — I could have been halfway across the Atlantic by the time dinner was over.

As a whole, the steak au poivre was good, but sloppily prepared. The shell steak was slightly overcooked, and the meat quality was not particularly impressive. The fries might have been perfect if they hadn’t been oversalted. The sauce was excellent: subtle, with a surprising pepper aftertaste that sneaks up on you. Delicious.

For garnish, a little pile of watercress and a roasted herbed tomato completed the plate. For extracurriculars, the Cotês de Provence Le Ca_____ 1998 was quite pleasant, and the duck pâté was good, but not as good as Jardin Bistro.