Commander’s Palace

Creole Martinis first, then a proper Brennan-style spread: Creole eggs Benedict, eggs Sardou (artichoke bottoms and spinach), and beef debris with egg. The plate we scored was the Creole Benedict — house-smoked pork loin on a butter biscuit.

The eggs were perfectly prepared. The Creole hollandaise carried a nice bump of spice without losing the sauce. The biscuit — call it a muffin if you must — was the best yet: buttery, toasted, and equal to the eggs.

The smoked pork loin was flavorful but chewy; after a week of ribs, the jaw already knew what was coming.